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White Roads and Black Roosters: A Two-Up Off-Road Tour in Tuscany…and Points North

Tuscany is a favorite destination, and we’ve been several times to the usual tourist attractions of Florence, Sienna, and the towns along the famous Chianti Road, or Strada del Vino. But as with all such beautiful places, it has become the victim of its own unerring beauty. But this part of Tuscany—to the northwest, south of Modena—is somehow different. It’s every bit as beautiful, but less beleaguered by the tourist onslaught.

Mount Umunhum

Originally published in RoadRUNNER Magazine. To anyone within a 100-mile radius, it’s known simply as “The Cube”: a giant cement block atop 3,486-foot Mt. Umunhum that appears ready to disgorge space aliens at any moment. This 1962 Air Force radar tower from the Cold War is sealed up tight (due to lead waste), but the…

Prince of Rides: Tracing the Coasts, Cliffs and Bays of Nova Scotia and the Cabot Trail by Motorcycle

This story originally appeared in RoadRUNNER Magazine. For the fourth time in one day, I am mangling the pronunciation of town names in Nova Scotia. Is it Why-COCO-maw or Why-COG-ama? Anti-GONE-ish or An-TIG-anish. Meredith and I have been motorcycling in Canada for three days, but I haven’t gotten any better at this. Meanwhile our traveling companions,…

The Seminal Motorcycle

Originally published in Rider Magazine.  Recently I visited one of my favorite cafes, a short ride up the Pacific Coast from my Santa Cruz, California, home. Called Downtown Local, the place is a syrupy mix of old motorcycles, vintage gas tanks stacked on shelves like cordwood, and decades worth of vinyl, which sound a little…