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All the Places I Shouldn’t Go

Originally published in “On the Level,” the official magazine of the BMW Riders Association. This afternoon, I went to the gym, just six miles away. Naturally, this was via Alice’s Restaurant, a two-hour ride each direction on relentlessly twisty roads with broken pavement. And yesterday, I had a special mission: the post office. This took the…

Life with 250

This Could be the Most Fun-per-Dollar Motorcycle I’ve Ever Owned This article was originally published in the November/December issue of “On the Level,” the magazine of the BMW Riders Association. Not long ago, having decided that my motorcycling life is entirely too sanitary, I bought a Honda CRF250L dirt bike on Craigslist, for $2,000. A…

White Roads and Black Roosters: A Two-Up Off-Road Tour in Tuscany…and Points North

Tuscany is a favorite destination, and we’ve been several times to the usual tourist attractions of Florence, Sienna, and the towns along the famous Chianti Road, or Strada del Vino. But as with all such beautiful places, it has become the victim of its own unerring beauty. But this part of Tuscany—to the northwest, south of Modena—is somehow different. It’s every bit as beautiful, but less beleaguered by the tourist onslaught.

Mount Umunhum

Originally published in RoadRUNNER Magazine. To anyone within a 100-mile radius, it’s known simply as “The Cube”: a giant cement block atop 3,486-foot Mt. Umunhum that appears ready to disgorge space aliens at any moment. This 1962 Air Force radar tower from the Cold War is sealed up tight (due to lead waste), but the…